Tips for Getting the Fishing Rig Ready for Open Water

Tips for Getting the Fishing Rig Ready for Open Water

By Steve Weisman

As spring approaches, anglers are transitioning from ice fishing to open water fishing. When this time comes, it’s time to get the boat ready for another year of fishing. There are really two ways to approach this. The first is for those who are mechanically inclined. They have the knowledge to both winterize and springerize their boats. Others like myself feel better relying on a marine mechanic for these tasks. For me, I want to jump in that boat at the first sign of open water, so I have taken my fishing rigs to Shane Kendall, owner of Great Lakes Marine and Sales (greatlakesmarineco.com) in Spirit Lake for the past 17 years. As Kendall says, “Time is so valuable. The last thing a person needs is to skip these fall and winter checks. They are what helps determine a trouble-free boating and fishing season.”

Kendall, who has been working on boats, motors, trailers and accessories for the past 35 years (since he was 15), shares some tips for both the do-it-yourselfer and the individual who relies on a trained mechanic to make sure things are working in the spring. “The first thing we do in the spring when we take the rig out of storage is to take a good visual look. We look for the obvious, maybe a rip in the travel cover or some snaps that don’t work right.”

Next, Kendall suggests looking at the boat trailer tires. In addition to checking air pressure, look for grease that has leaked out from the hubs. This is a sign that a seal might be bad and that the bearings need to be repacked. “Actually, we never check. We repack the hubs every year.” It makes sense. How many times have you seen a boat and trailer pulled off to the side of the road with burnt up bearings?

During this initial look, Kendall also checks the trailer jack and winch system. Things always work better when moving parts are greased or lubed. One of the least checked spots is the winch. “It will definitely work better if you spray silicone on the open gears of the winch.” Also, examine the winch strap for wear and tear. A lot of pressure is placed on this strap during loading and even when pulling the rig down the road.

Once this is completed, Kendall will roll back the boat cover and begin looking inside the boat. First, comes the battery check, both cranking and deep-cycle batteries. See if they have plenty of liquid. Open each port, making sure to keep the battery level during the entire maintenance process. Each plate should be covered equally. Water levels are low if any part of the plates is exposed to air. Kendall suggests using distilled water rather than tap water to replenish the water level. On a personal note, I do remember one time using my onboard charger during the winter, and I did not check the water levels. In the spring, I found that one of the batteries had been low on water, and I had fried the battery!

During this battery check, it is a good time clean the dirt off the batteries and make sure that there is no corrosion around the posts. Clean the posts and then reconnect the batteries making sure everything is snug. With batteries checked and charged, Kendall next does a full systems check: all lights, horn, locator, trolling motor, accessories, bilge pump and livewell pump. “We also wet check the livewells and bilge. Just because they hum when you flip the switch, that doesn’t mean they are working. We will put in the livewell plugs, take a garden hose and fill the livewell to a level where we can check the system including the recirculation pump. Then we pump out the water. This is a good way to prime the system and know that it will be working when you hit the lake.”

Something some people forget is to grease the steering cables. With all the water and sun that the cables experience yearly, the boat’s cable steering can begin to tighten up and even rust. A good grade marine grease works best, and there are fittings on the outboard engine bracket that grease the steering cable. “This is always something we do in the fall, when we are winterizing the rig. We also check the lower unit in the fall, but if you didn’t, then do it in the spring. Any oil dripping off the scag could mean a bad seal or a cracked lower unit drain plug gasket.” Kendall also believes it is extremely important to pull off the prop. “You never know when line has become wrapped up around the shaft.” Line that gets wrapped around a spinning propeller shaft can eventually work its way under the lip seals on the shaft. Those are the seals that keep water from entering the gear case and keep oil from leaking out. While the prop is off, lubricate the prop shaft with marine grease to prevent corrosion. At the same time, Kendall suggests that you check to make sure you have a stainless steel cotter key.

Finally, we come to the outboard motor. If taken care of and regularly serviced, outboard motors can last for many decades. The age of the engine helps determine what needs to be done. First, let’s look at the older two-stroke motors, pretty much anything before 1988. Kendall says, “With older two-strokes, we will fog the cylinders in the fall before taking the rig to storage. Then in the spring, I recommend replacing the spark plugs because fogging tends to foul the plugs.” Of course, these motors require a mix of good, quality premium octane gas along with the recommended TC-W3 oil, which is an industry marine standard (NNMA) that certifies the oil provides adequate lubrication and engine protection. With the premium octane and quality oil mix, two-stroke motors are extremely dependable and can last for many decades. Be careful not to get any gasoline that contains ethanol for these older two-stroke motors.

The new four-strokes are quite the motors. Kendall says, “You inspect motor, check the oil and the fuel filter. We recommend changing the oil and filter once a year or every 100 hours.” In this situation, we are usually dealing with larger gas tanks, so the gasoline will often set idle for the winter. In this case, Kendall always uses Stabil fuel stabilizer to protect the gas, the fuel tank and the four-stroke motor.

Finally, it’s time to check out important accessories that are too often overlooked: life jackets, throwables and fire extinguisher. “Many people do not realize that a tear/rip in a life jacket or throwable means it is no good. A fire extinguisher can also be no good.” By not checking their condition, it could turn into an unwanted fine if you are checked by a conservation officer or water patrol officer. It’s all about safety, so it is important to make sure these things are all workable and up-to-date.

Completing these tasks will help ensure that your boating and fishing season isn’t spent with your fishing rig out of the water in need of repair. Nothing can ruin taking valuable time away from the water. Although these tasks can all be done yourself, for me knowing that a reputable professional marine mechanic has winterized and springerized my fishing rig definitely gives me peace of mind.