Waterfowl Decoy Buyers Guide
Waterfowl Decoy Buyers Guide
By Ryan Eder
The waterfowl decoy business is competitive; there are so many choices and options where do you even begin? How do you know which brand to go with, what are (if any) the differences between each? Why are there different sizes? Do not overthink this purchase! I will simplify how to go about buying decoys so that you can get the most value for your budget and hunting preferences. While decoys are not the most important factor that determines your success (scouting being the most important), the use of your decoys, as well as their quality will directly impact how well your hunt goes.
We have come a long way since the days of using cork decoys with marginally realistic paint jobs. Goose hunters used to put black and white garbage bags in the field as decoys, and they had success doing it! There was a day when duck hunters would keep their own flocks of English Mallard ducks and use them as live decoys to attract more ducks. Obviously this is no longer in practice, and birds have become very educated with exposure to all kinds of decoy spreads and integration of land, water and motion decoys.
When it comes to waterfowl hunting, you will need a versatile collection of decoys. Not only are we hunting ducks and geese, but we hunt on land, water and of course ice. This means that we should always have a variety of land decoys, floating (water) decoys and shells that can be used on land or ice to give our spreads a fuller, more realistic feel.
For land decoys (ducks and geese) I like the designs that utilize a stake to put the decoy on. The stake gives the decoy a very realistic position, but also moves slightly in the wind making it look alive. Collectively, an entire spread with some movement will benefit your hunt significantly.
Water decoys come with two different types of keels; a water-keel or weighted keel. The water keel may or may not fill with water and allows the decoys to float, and the weighted keel is typically filled with sand and sealed off. I will tell you that the weighted keel is slightly more expensive and heavier, so if you carry your decoys far this is something to consider. That being said, the weighted keels will float better and ensure an upright position for decoys being thrown.
Water decoys need to be rigged with line and weights so that they can be “anchored” and not float away. For ducks we are almost always hunting puddle type water, 4 feet deep or less, but it is possible to hunt ducks or geese on a lake where water is deep. For you sea duck hunters you’ll also be on deeper water. For the deeper water, heavier weights will be necessary to try and keep decoys in the same vicinity. They will move a little, and that is ok.
All decoys come in three basic sizes: standard, magnum and super magnum. Having some of each is important! If your entire spread is super magnum, it will not look as realistic to birds; however the super magnum decoys are important for being more visible to birds flying overhead. We are trying to be visible to birds, yet be as realistic as possible so I recommend having plenty of standard size decoys, but definitely incorporate a few magnums and super mags into your spread.
In addition to sizes, as well as land and water decoys, it is important to mix up the species a little bit. You do not need to be so diverse that it is unrealistic (it’s definitely normal to see a few different species in a lake or pond, but not necessarily 10 different species). That being said, mixing in a few others is a great idea, and I personally think that adding a few geese to the duck spread can be used as a “confidence decoy” that tells the ducks that things are safe and even the geese are there.
Let’s not forget that when we look at our decoy spread you will want to have at least one motion decoy of some kind if not two or three. You may not use them every hunt, but you’ll want the ability to put a motion decoy(s) into your rig. This can be the Mojo products (can be turned on and left running, or remote controlled to be on or off from the blind), or similar type products that are battery powered and add another element to your spread. There are times I am not seeing them be as effective as other hunts, but I like to have the option!
Word of advice; never underestimate the use of shell decoys. These products have evolved to look very real, and come in handy when hunting over ice. They are light weight and can rest on the ice for a realistic portrayal of birds near an ice opening, or putting around layout blinds to “hide” the blinds.
You have several brands to choose from and just like any other market you will see a range of price tags and quality. The high end products tend to be too expensive but cheaper products use cheaper plastics, lower quality paint and start to show wear and tear too soon. To me the answer is a middle of the road decoy that is priced right but durable. For me, Greenhead Gear products have withstood the test of time; the paint jobs have lasted for several seasons and the realism is undeniable. The secret to making your decoys last is not just buying good quality, but taking care of them! Invest in slotted decoy bags, and keep your decoys from being thrown into one giant bag and rubbing surfaces with other decoys constantly. The little details and effort will keep your decoys in much nicer shape for a longer period of time.
The moral of the story here is that you can never have too many decoys. Every situation we encounter in the field may require a different setup, more or less decoys, geese, ducks or both, as well as water and/or land decoys. You then also need to determine if use of the motion decoys is necessary. This is not cheap, so have your hunting buddies all contribute and each of you buy various products that you need. This will expand your rig, but decrease your expense. Over time, you will build your rig up to something that can outfit you for any waterfowl hunting scenario.