Forum Replies Created
sh40674ParticipantMay 30, 2017 at 11:43 pmPost count: 52
Find a rocky bank and fish close to the bank, sometimes in only 18 plus inches of water. Last time I was at redrock during the spawn I would throw c hubs up to the bank on 2 feet of line under a bobber and drag it in until it just floated free. Nailed a cat every time. Best day of catfishing I’d ever hadsh40674ParticipantMay 30, 2017 at 11:30 pmPost count: 52
Also whay exactly did they do to the lake? If it’s a no go, any other recommendations?sh40674ParticipantJuly 11, 2016 at 9:10 amPost count: 52
small hook and some worm work for them? i suck with a cast net. i’ll have my 3 year old with me, sure he wouldn’t mind catching them lolsh40674ParticipantJuly 8, 2016 at 4:34 amPost count: 52
thanks for the info, very informative!
can you buy shad somewhere down there or do you have to catch it? any trick to catching them besides a cast net? best places to find them? we don’t have much shad around here, i usually use chubs.
good baitshops down there?sh40674ParticipantJuly 7, 2016 at 10:59 amPost count: 52
i have, most people say above or below the tubes… i have no idea where or what those even are (assuming the spillway).. looked at an overhead map trying to recognize where everyone is talking about and i’m getting confused. just looking to quickly be pointed in the right directionsh40674ParticipantMay 26, 2016 at 6:30 amPost count: 52
yeah, i’m sure it will be a rare opportunity to get one there, but it does happen. i’m more than sure the times it happens might just be people assuming they’re a pike. obviously alot more pike in that river than muskie, but the DNR lists greene to shell rock as part of muskie waters in iowash40674ParticipantMay 26, 2016 at 6:29 amPost count: 52
any good spots to bank fish? where would you recommend on the bank to try to hook into a muskie? especially with the water down. was going to get a new boat this year but thinking it will wait till next year.. so i’ll be stuck on the bank until then. thanks for the replies fellas!sh40674ParticipantMay 25, 2016 at 9:51 amPost count: 52sh40674ParticipantMay 7, 2014 at 7:11 amPost count: 52sh40674ParticipantApril 23, 2014 at 12:01 amPost count: 52sh40674ParticipantApril 19, 2014 at 1:51 amPost count: 52sh40674ParticipantApril 18, 2014 at 3:28 pmPost count: 52sh40674ParticipantApril 18, 2014 at 1:19 pmPost count: 52
First, forget kinetic energy. If you use fixed blade broad heads you don’t need KE. You are talking the range in where you shouldn’t use mechanicals to where they will be ok… Trust me you don’t want to find out the hard way. Learn to shoot well with fixed blades and take the guesswork out of it.
Second, don’t shoot more than what you can… If 55lbs is pushing it and you can’t shoot it repeatedly, comfortably, then don’t. Find a good 50-60lb bow and start around 50-52, and go up to where you’re comfortable. I shoot a g5 Prime Defy, it’s rated to 70 and I keep it at 66 because I’m comfortable there.
Third, arrows: personally I like beman ICS arrows. They are cheap but tough and shoot well. Very affordable and definitely get your dollars worth, again, match your arrow to your setup.
You are just getting started in a world of headaches. Bow hunting and tuning is trial and error. Which broad head is best? Whichever one you shoot accurately. Thunderheads, muzzys, and Magnus fixed blade have dropped more deer than anything else combined.
Don’t concern yourself with which type of broad head, as you’ll figure it out. Just remember 95% of accuracy issues are the shooter, not the bow.
Good luck dudesh40674ParticipantApril 18, 2014 at 1:06 pmPost count: 52