NaiveNativeParticipantJuly 6, 2017 at 5:32 pmPost count: 12
Hi – I am relatively new to fly fishing and have had pretty good results on pan fish and bass in Iowa and trout fishing in Colorado over the past few years. In reading though some of the old forum posts on this site, I came across a couple of mentions of using a silicone paste on your dry flies to keep them on top of the waters surface. I had never heard of this before and have always just used a lot of mock casts to dry out the fly every third or fourth cast.
Is using silicone paste the better way to do it? Does the product have taste or odor issues that are going to scare off the fish? Is there a brand that you think is better than others?cys_av8rParticipantJuly 6, 2017 at 5:36 pmPost count: 179
I have used Gink and a couple of others quite a bit.
The key is to let use a small amount, rub it around between your thumb and first finger to liquefy it, then apply to the sparsely to the body of the fly. Keep it out of the hackle.
Works well for me. I also use Easy Dry from Loon once in a while as well with small BWOs and other smaller winged flies after they get slimed.cys_av8rParticipantJuly 6, 2017 at 5:50 pmPost count: 179AnonymousJuly 6, 2017 at 6:03 pmPost count: 2517gsgrampsParticipantAugust 21, 2017 at 3:47 pmPost count: 42NomadParticipantAugust 21, 2017 at 4:29 pmPost count: 562cys_av8rParticipantAugust 21, 2017 at 5:02 pmPost count: 179
Quote by: gsgramps
how does this work on foam flies example–foam hoppers. some foam floats better than others. and i still use a floating especially in rough water.
Never used anything on my foam hoppers, I have had some cheap foam in the past that didn’t float the best, so I just used a razor blade to re-use the hook and threw that stuff out.djoParticipantAugust 21, 2017 at 5:52 pmPost count: 356
There are a lot of floatants that are pretty much identical in form and function. For the last couple decades I have used Loon Aquel. It seems to work as well as any. When I am dry fly fishing I usually put a small amount on my index finger and then after rubbing my thumb and index finger together apply it to the fly. This is not an all day treatment and is usually only good for a couple dozen floats. If I hook a fish, the effect of the floatant is largely negated. My program then is to swish the fly in the water to wash off the fish slime and blow off the excess water. I then apply a little Frogg’s Fanny powder to the fly. Unlike the floatant, the power does not make the fly water proof but is a desiccant that absorbs the water from the fly. After a dozen or so casts (or a fish or two) I treat it again with the powder. This combination has always worked best for me.
Flies built from closed cell foam do not absorb much water but smaller flies after long use are likely to get waterlogged. I usually swap them out to dry and use a fresh fly.
DavidHandcannonParticipantSeptember 4, 2017 at 1:54 amPost count: 175djoParticipantSeptember 4, 2017 at 9:16 pmPost count: 356
Quote by: Handcannon
Would a silicone spray work?
There used to be silicone sprays sold as a dry fly finish but I have not seen any sold recently. Some people pretreat flies and then dry them before heading out. I have heard of people using Rainex and also paraffin wax dissolved in a solvent like white gas. In both cases the flies are treated a couple days before and allowed to dry. I have never used either method.
Here is an article on using paraffin – http://www.drlogik.com/flyfloatants.html
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