Home Forums Fishing General Fishing Forum Mounting a transducer on boat

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  • AvatarTrapCyclone
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    Since I have my boat opened up for repairs I figured I might as well go for a new fish finder since if I want to upgrade at a later date I will just have to open it all up again. So I managed to pull all the electronics for the old depth finder and, after doing a bit of research, ordered a new model that had all the features I’m looking for at a price that I can work with. So I anticipate that one of the things I will need to do when the new fish finder arrives is install the transducer at the back of the boat.

    It is kind of doubtful that the holes from the old mounting bracket will match up with the holes on the new mounting bracket, but if I’m lucky they may match up. So I’m wondering what is your typical process for sealing off the old holes and also sealing new ones if it becomes necessary to do so. There seem to be various opinions online, but most seem to agree that the 3M Adhesive 5200 is too strong. Some people use silicone, but sounds like it may not be rated for use under water? There is another 3M product that I think I will use, this is 3M Marine Adhesive sealant 4200 which seems to have a weaker bond strength so that things can be removed if you anticipate upgrading at a later date. So I will probably use this product. Is there a preferred way to apply the sealant to the screw and/or bracket to get the best seal?

    Avatarbwhntr33
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    A good friend of mine was over bout 5 years ago and we were shooting bows in the backyard. He had a fast flite string on his bow and managed to put an arrow in the bow of my old 14 foot river boat. Not a big deal luckily high above the water line. Went to hardware store and they had a product in a tube called marine weld. Basically pinch a peice off and roll it together. Patched the hole and painted over it, can’t even tell it’s there and still holding. You can pick it out later to. Bout 6 bucks for the whole thing and it goes a long ways. Supposedly you can apply it to a surface under water in an emergency but I’ve never tried that. Awesome stuff.

    Avatarmoonfish
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    Post count: 1038

    I used 5200 to hold a vinyl board over the holes and then mount the transducer to it. Put a couple small bolts through the old holes. It gives you a chance to move the transducer around that you won’t have if you drill through the hull to mount it. They sell plastic boards specifically for this but I kind of substituted.

    Avatarorngruffee
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    What Moonfish said.Gives you the option of adjusting up down and sideways to get away from hull disturbance and such.
    I think mine was like a foot long by 4 inches tall.

    AvatarTrapCyclone
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    Quote by: moonfish

    I used 5200 to hold a vinyl board over the holes and then mount the transducer to it. Put a couple small bolts through the old holes. It gives you a chance to move the transducer around that you won’t have if you drill through the hull to mount it. They sell plastic boards specifically for this but I kind of substituted.

    If I am understanding this right, you put some bolts through the old holes and then just used 5200 to hold the vinyl board over the old holes? So the vinyl board is held to the boat just by the adhesive? I am assuming you also drilled out a recess behind the vinyl board to accommodate the bolts that are filling the old holes?

    While I was looking for the 4200 and 5200 adhesive I actually happened upon a transducer mounting board that is made of high density polyethylene. I am going to see about mounting this to the boat and then put the new transducer on the mounting board. Rather than drilling new holes for the mounting board I might see if I can use the existing holes to hold the mounting board in place. I will just have to wait for the parts to come in and then we’ll see how everything lines up.

    Avatarmoonfish
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    yup, just a couple tiny bolts through the old holes that also go through the board. I didn’t drilll any new holes. It seemed like a good plan to me.

    AvatarTrapCyclone
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    Quote by: moonfish

    yup, just a couple tiny bolts through the old holes that also go through the board. I didn’t drilll any new holes. It seemed like a good plan to me.

    Yeah, I like this approach. I am probably going to do the same thing. Use the existing holes to hold the mounting board in place and then mount the transducer onto the board. This will definitely make it easier to make adjustments to the position of the transducer and then to remove it if needs be. Thanks for your input, it was very helpful.

    Avatarmoonfish
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    Post count: 1038

    Make sure you have fat little screws that are shorter than the board. Mine was 1/2″ thick improvised material and I wished the board was 3/4″ thick. Also, mount slightly above the bottom of the boat so you don’t get weird rooster tails, etc. Luck

    AvatarIA 9249 AY
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    AvatarDWC
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    Post count: 77

    I just put marine sealant in the old holes as my transducer that came with the boat was drilled into the aluminum. Them i attached one of thosentrasducer mounting boards with screws dipped in the sealant and them ran a bead of sealant all the way around the board. Hasnt leaked a drop.

    AvatarTrapCyclone
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    Quote by: IA+9249+AY

    Something like this and silicone.
    https://www.amazon.com/Berts-Custom-Tackle-American-Transducer/dp/B00HL9MN8U

    Yeah, that’s the exact one that I ordered. I was planning to use 3M Marine Adhesive 4200 as the sealant, though.

    AvatarIA 9249 AY
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    Quote by: TrapCyclone

    Quote by: IA+9249+AY

    Something like this and silicone.
    https://www.amazon.com/Berts-Custom-Tackle-American-Transducer/dp/B00HL9MN8U

    Yeah, that’s the exact one that I ordered. I was planning to use 3M Marine Adhesive 4200 as the sealant, though.

    Yeah, I just meant some kind of below the water line sealant. I wasn’t sure which one was the right one and didn’t feel like looking, haha.

    edit: I need to do the exact same thing this spring. Upgrading to a Helix 10/i-Pilot link. I think 4200 is the way to go after 5 minutes of looking into it.

    AvatarTrapCyclone
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    Post count: 2552

    So I received the polyurethane mounting board for my transducer, but now have a couple other issues to ponder. For one, the manual indicates that the transducer should be put on the right (starboard) side of the transom for a clockwise-turning prop and should be at least 15 inches laterally from the outside edge of the prop. Seems the old transducer was mounted on the left (port) side and there actually is more room on that side, so I am wondering if it really makes a huge difference which side you mount the transducer on? The manual says there will be less turbulence on the right side with a clockwise-turning prop. Also, locating the transducer 15″ in the lateral direction from the outside edge of the prop kind of puts it a bit far out and closer to the edge of the boat. Would this pose another issue?

    Then the second issue is where to put the polyurethane mounting board. The previous transducer was screwed directly into the transom, so there are some holes that need to be filled. I was going to either fill and seal them by screwing in the same type of screws that were already there or drill holes in the polyurethane mounting board and attach it to the hull through those three mounting screws from the previous transducer. However, this looks kind of odd and doesn’t really provide evenly distributed attachment points on the board. So another thing I was considering was to fill those old holes in with screws and sealant then drill a recess in the back of the polyurethane board so that it can be positioned flush over the old holes, thereby covering them. This would, however require that I drill at least two new holes in the transom to attach the polyurethane board which is something that I don’t really want to do if I can avoid it. The advantage here would be getting a nice, smooth surface to attach my toys and then adjust them as needed without having to drill more holes.

    So does anyone have any additional feedback regarding the best way to go about doing this?

    Avatarorngruffee
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    Post count: 900

    Maybe u tube? I don’t think I even remember the prop rotation thing when I did mine. The only thing I recall is staying
    away from ribs on the bottom of the hull to avoid turbulence. I do remember having 2 transducers and a speedo thing down
    there all on one side and somehow they all worked!

    AvatarIA 9249 AY
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    Post count: 2108

    I am taking my boat (Alumacraft v-hull) in tomorrow to have my Helix 10 installed. If you can wait for me to get it back I’ll be glad to take pics.

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